{"id":19278,"date":"2012-10-15T14:31:50","date_gmt":"2012-10-15T12:31:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.po-L.com\/belogue\/?p=19278"},"modified":"2012-11-19T13:18:09","modified_gmt":"2012-11-19T11:18:09","slug":"belgrade-pristina","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/10\/15\/belgrade-pristina\/","title":{"rendered":"Belgrade – Priština."},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n


\nKilomètres 832 à 1 134, 31 juillet.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

Étape 1<\/a> | Étape 2<\/a> | Étape 3<\/a> | Étape 5<\/a> | Étape 6 | Étape 7<\/a><\/p>\n

Belgrade m’a tout de suite fait cet étrange effet de se sentir comme à la maison dans un endroit où l’on n’avait pourtant jamais mis les pieds. Je la quitte avec un sentiment d’inachevé, une inexplicable inclination et l’envie d’y revenir vite. Les 240 bornes d’autoroute qui suivent nous mènent dans la campagne, les routes à gravier de 20 kg et les grands-mères serbophones à chèvres. Les gamins nous font des signes, nous nous trompons dans la déviation, il faut gratter le fond du vide-poche pour payer le pompiste de Rudare en liquide car il ne prend pas les cartes et au détour d’un virage près de Merdare – merde d’arrêt<\/em> – surgit la file. 2 km de camions collés en tête-à-cul qui attendent à la frontière que les Serbes daignent les laisser passer et qu’il faut longer par la bande de gauche. La douane nous prend 1 h 30 min pour 12 voitures, dans 32 °C de température ambiante. Puis le Kosovo en lumière rasante, puis Pristina qui surgit tout autour de nous sans prévenir, Pristina qui, étrangement, ressemble à l’image que je me faisais de Kaboul. On a vraiment l’esprit tordu, parfois.<\/p>\n

\n

 My Heart Belongs to Cecilia Winter<\/a> – Departure and Arrival<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>ngg_shortcode_0_placeholder

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kilomètres 832 à 1 134, 31 juillet. Étape 1 | Étape 2 | Étape 3 | Étape 5 | Étape 6 | Étape 7 Belgrade m’a tout de suite fait cet étrange effet de se sentir comme à la maison dans un endroit où l’on n’avait pourtant jamais mis les pieds. Je la quitte avec un…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":26387,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3],"tags":[6502,11187,10587,2571,2615,10144,6789,11188,6785,6784,10668,11196,10485,6783,6788,10599,10104,11195,10103,6781,11185,170,6681,6539,10778,10171],"class_list":["post-19278","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-dpc","tag-balkans","tag-belgrade","tag-camion","tag-ef-16-35-mm-f28l-ii-usm","tag-eos-5d-mark-ii","tag-ciel","tag-departure-and-arrival","tag-district-de-belgrade","tag-douane","tag-frontiere","tag-graffiti","tag-kosovo","tag-maison","tag-merdare","tag-my-heart-belongs-to-cecilia-winter","tag-nuage","tag-panneau","tag-pristina","tag-route","tag-rudare","tag-serbie","tag-sigma-70-300-mm-f4-56-dg-apo-macro","tag-srbija","tag-tram","tag-tramway","tag-voiture"],"acf":[],"geo":{"latitude":42.9368134,"longitude":21.247797,"description":"E-80, Serbie"},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210151.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3b35P-50W","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":19178,"url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/10\/04\/bajina-bata-belgrade\/","url_meta":{"origin":19278,"position":0},"title":"Bajina Bašta – Belgrade.","author":"dpc","date":"4 octobre 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Kilom\u00e8tres 521 \u00e0 832, 30 juillet. \u00c9tape 1 | \u00c9tape 2 | \u00c9tape 4 | \u00c9tape 5 | \u00c9tape 6 | \u00c9tape 7 Dana Buoy \u2013 Call to Be \u00a0","rel":"","context":"Dans "DPC"","block_context":{"text":"DPC","link":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/category\/dpc\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210041.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210041.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210041.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210041.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19318,"url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/10\/18\/pritina-budva\/","url_meta":{"origin":19278,"position":1},"title":"Priština – Budva","author":"dpc","date":"18 octobre 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Kilom\u00e8tres 1\u00a0134 \u00e0 1\u00a0526, 1er ao\u00fbt. \u00c9tape 1 | \u00c9tape 2 | \u00c9tape 3 | \u00c9tape 4 | \u00c9tape 6 | \u00c9tape 7 \u00c7a commence par la travers\u00e9e du Kosovo. Les plaines, les maisons inachev\u00e9es, les drapeaux albanais et les monuments aux morts de l'U\u00c7K, partout, puis l'arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Pe\u0107,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "DPC"","block_context":{"text":"DPC","link":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/category\/dpc\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210181.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210181.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210181.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201210181.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19096,"url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/09\/27\/sarajevo-bajina-bata\/","url_meta":{"origin":19278,"position":2},"title":"Sarajevo – Bajina Bašta.","author":"dpc","date":"27 septembre 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Kilom\u00e8tres 304 \u00e0 521, 29 juillet. \u00c9tape 1 | \u00c9tape 3 | \u00c9tape 4 | \u00c9tape 5 | \u00c9tape 6 | \u00c9tape 7 Top 6 des cools trucs que j'ai appris le 29 juillet dernier et qui me serviront plus tard dans ma vie future\u00a0: Lire le croate. D\u00e9chiffrer le\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "DPC"","block_context":{"text":"DPC","link":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/category\/dpc\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201209271.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201209271.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201209271.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201209271.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19588,"url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/11\/19\/dubrovnik-mali-rat\/","url_meta":{"origin":19278,"position":3},"title":"Dubrovnik – Mali Rat","author":"dpc","date":"19 novembre 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"Kilom\u00e8tres 1\u00a0633 \u00e0 2\u00a0007, 4 ao\u00fbt. \u00c9tape 1 | \u00c9tape 2 | \u00c9tape 3 | \u00c9tape 4 | \u00c9tape 5 | \u00c9tape 6 ... And You Will Know Us by the Trail of Dead \u2013 Catatonic \u00a0","rel":"","context":"Dans "DPC"","block_context":{"text":"DPC","link":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/category\/dpc\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201211191.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201211191.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201211191.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/201211191.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":18965,"url":"https:\/\/www.wallendorff.com\/belogue\/2012\/09\/14\/kastel-novi-sarajevo\/","url_meta":{"origin":19278,"position":4},"title":"Ka\u0161tel Novi – Sarajevo.","author":"dpc","date":"14 septembre 2012","format":false,"excerpt":"\u00c9tape 2 | \u00c9tape 3 | \u00c9tape 4 | \u00c9tape 5 | \u00c9tape 6 | \u00c9tape 7 Je l'ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 dit1: la photo sur la route, c'est hyper-frustrant. 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